I am going to assume you have rebuilt your entire suspension, shiny new subframes with all new busings and bearings? Good, then we will begin.

If you have access to a OBD tool that can wipe the ride height offsetts then do this first so everthing is zeroed. Its not ‘essential’ but its better if you can.

  • Ensure the car is parked on flat gound.
  • load the car as you expect to drive it, spares, jack etc etc
  • check the tyre pressures
  • Engine running, set the ride height to standard and drive it back and forth to settle the tyres on the road.
  • Engine off and door open jack the car up on each corner and disconnect the drop links to the anty roll bars front and rear
  • with the tyres back on the ground roll the car again to settle the tyres.

What we are trying to do next is first set the ride height front and rear, then ‘ballance’ the car side to side.

Now if we had 4 corner scales we could set them up and as we adjusted the drop links we could make sure the car placed the same load on each tyre patch. I dont have corner scales so we are going to use a tape measure!

Run round each corner of the car and using the supplied guage roughly set the desired height.

If you have the patience then put a jack under the front of the car and lifting in exactly the centre of the front sub frame get the front wheels off the road. You now have a ‘three legged’ car 🙂

Returning to the back of the car open the back doors and from the sharp outer edge of the sill measure to the ground, if the suspension is active and you have the rods set correctly these measurements will be the same on both sides and while we are at it, the load on the tyre contact patches will be the same.

Drop the front to the ground and reverse the process jacking the back and levelling the front.

With all four wheels on the ground you car should now be sitting nicely at its new ride height.

Before we go for a drive we need to re connect the anty roll bars. If you are replacing the stock drop links then just bung them on but you might notice that when you try to connect the second side of the bar the links will be the wrong length. This is due to the built in stresses and manufacturing tollerances in the suspension components. On a stock car we would just bang them in but when we do this we build back in some forces that will be fighting against the suspension.

Remember the anty roll bar should not be applying any forces if the car is not rolling so use the adjustable drop links we supply for the anty roll bars.

In the set one link for the front and one for the rear will already be locked to lenght, put this one on first then on the opposite side adjust the lenght to the point where it just slides on without deflecting the roll bar at which point the setup is complete.

CHECK EVERYTHING IS TIGHT

CHECK YOU HAVE REPLACED EVERYTHING

And go for a slow test drive before returning and checking using your tape measure that everything is still level.

Things to watch out for;

When the car has been running at one height for a while and you then move it you may hear new squeeks and other noises from the suspension. Do not ignore them! You may need to slacken and re tighten all the suspension links and bolts through busings at the new ride height to let the stresses out of the system.